After five months spent in California, enjoying the sun and the great waves, here I am, back in France, with my head full of beautiful souvenirs and projects. The air is fresh, the water is freezing, but despite everything it feels good to be home. It is always a bit strange to be back from a long trip, you feel different but nothing changed. You need to reaccustom to your everyday life, re-dig in. Fortunately photos are here to remind you that what you lived there really existed, that it wasn’t a dream. Here is in pictures a little recap of this trip in the surfing land.
Blackies, Newport Beach
New homespot for a few months, Blackies is a little longboard paradise. A regular beach break but at the same time never looking the same. The water is clear, even crystallin sometimes, you can see seals, huge school of fish, little sand sharks or a group of curious dolphins coming to say hi pretty often. The atmosphere there is special, everybody knows or recognize each other, people are here to surf together and chill out. In the water as well as in the parking lot you can meet very different people, from a family here for a barbecue and a first surfing lesson to a surfer pro making the show and hanging out on the parking with friends. Early morning sessions at Blackies have become a ritual, we park in front of the waves, we take a look and quickly change before it gets crowded. We enjoy the calm of the ocean and the beauty of this place on the sunrise. After two hours sliding it is time for breakfast, a coffee and a donut on the pier watching others walking on water. Simple happiness.
Laguna Beach escape
No perfect waves but a lot of small beaches at the foot of the cliffs, a cute little town and the famous Thalia Surf Shop.
Going South, San Onofre & Encinitas
San Onofre is one of the best wave I have ever surfed. The entrance of the beach is expensive ($15) but if the conditions are good it is really worth it. You park on a pathway behind the log and only have to walk a few feet to get your toes in the water. A lot of rocks and seaweeds but the waves can be really good on several peaks. The perfect spot to spend the day at the beach and meet nice people.
Encinitas, always beautiful, with its perfect waves and the cliff as far as your eyes can see.
The man behind the lens
My partner of travel, surf, life.